Watch the video above. If you have any questions (or just want to tell me how you feel about the course so far) feel free to leave me a comment below, otherwise, just click here to go to Part 5: Front Neck Shaping.
Enjoy!
Learn how to predictably, *consistently*, knit a sweater that come out the size you planned.
Watch the video above. If you have any questions (or just want to tell me how you feel about the course so far) feel free to leave me a comment below, otherwise, just click here to go to Part 5: Front Neck Shaping.
Enjoy!
Hello Cheryl, following along, see you on the next video! thank you! 🙂
Am loving the course so far. Have had pneumonia so I’m a little late starting. I am getting ready for Section 4. Can’t wait to make sweater for myself and being able to make it to fit instead of “just too small” or “way too big.”
Gosh Judy! I hope you’re feeling much better by now. (Sorry . . . I haven’t checked these comments in a while). And I’ll be happy to see photos of sweaters that really fit you.
These are excellent tips, Cheryl. Thank you!
Thank you Erin!
Hi Cheryl. The youtube videos aren’t loading after part 3. 😭 Kathleen
Let me check Kathleen. OK . . . I just went through and checked some random links for the later videos and they all worked for me. Every part is on a different post and every post has a series of links to all the other videos on the right. Maybe I didn’t connect one or more of them? Can you tell me which links don’t work based on the “page” that it’s on? Maybe copy the URL and post it in a comment for me.
All your instructions are so well explained. I have chosen a fingering wool for this project and it works beautifully. Thanks for all the tips.
You are so welcome Marie! Not many people have the time or patience to choose fingering for children’s sweaters these days. My mother always chose it for our many babies. I like it. And thank you for commenting.
I have bound off 5 stitch’s and have 22 on each side. I purled to the end but have no idea where to cut the yarn to start a new ball or how to join a new ball. I’m at the end of my purl row which has the bound off stitch’s in the middle. Help Sharon
Turn the work and knit the first 22 sts. Skip the bound off sts and simply pick up a new ball of yarn, leave a tail of about 6 inches, and start knitting the other 22 sts. It’s just like adding a new ball of yarn at the end of a row of knitting.
Thanks for all your help. I have now finished the front, but I have my winter chores waiting and company coming so will pick up the lesson on shoulders in October. It’s a beautifull fall but very windy. Sharon
Hi Cheryl,
When we arrive at the plackett bind off row/or the neck bind off row does it matter whether it is a right side or wrong side row ( of the fabric) if that is the calculated row number to begin the bind offs? If we calculate, for example, neck bind off at 30 rows, Then at the 30th row we begin the neck bind off (not row 31) regardless of right side or wrong side. There’s something about the right side that screams “right side ” to start to me!
Thanks,
Rose
No, it really doesn’t matter. And it’s OK if you want to always orient yourself on the “right (or public) side” to start your bind-offs. Adding or subtracting a row will not make a noticeable difference.
Just wanted to say thank you Cheryl. The course is excellent and I think your methods are going to revolutionise my knitting. I have learned so much already. All the very best, Carole
Cheryl for the I come out with 8.125 sts.. for the botton to bind of but I need odd number here do I go up to 9 or back down to 7 also I get I get 29 sts. for the back but when I divide 29 by 2 I get 14.5 again I need an odd number do I round up to 15 or down to 13 usually we round up the number up when it more them 5 thank again so much for doing this for us.
I think I got it seems that I do not need to go up or down. or round the number, but thanks
Hi Cheryl, I am working through this tutorial and thoroughly enjoying all that I am learning(relatively new knitter)…. thank you so much! A general question I have- should you count rows or measure inches on the actual fabric when identifying action points/spots? It seems row counting would be most accurate in insuring everything lines up.
PS I have noticed that my “actual ” gauge is turning out to be different than my swatch measurements…. the garment is running slightly larger…ie the length of my back is closer to 12.5 in rather than 12.
Hi Sheri,
I count rows when I’m trying to match things like underarm points on a front and back, and, of course, if I’m shaping. In the case of a looser gauge from your swatch, 1) it’s not uncommon. 2) I’d use the measurement and recalculate everything. Sorry I didn’t catch this months earlier. I was in the middle of moving and I find that a disorienting event, not to mention tiring. I had an ER trip for a heart issue on 12/3 and that threw me off too. I’m all better now.